Pdf mags fashion

Clear navigation Captions Each chapter has a clear These provide image heading to allow readers details and commentary to quickly locate areas of to guide the reader in the interest. You should always begin by considering your light desk space.

Some They are available in a wide range lines can easily be erased. Charcoal is useful for fashion life- Each grade offers a different density drawing. Drawing with charcoal is easel position. This should also free up your arms, which is always and line quality. The harder grade a much looser experience than the best way to approach drawing.

Arranging your art supplies on pencils can be useful for producing working with pencil since it offers the same side as your drawing hand will help to reduce unnecessary fine-detailed line drawings, while the bolder lines that are not intended softer grades are well-suited to more to be erased.

It is a good media for stretching, and helps avoid simple accidents such as dripping paint expressive sketch drawings and loosening up and drawing on larger on your drawing. Finally, relax and enjoy the experience. Newsprint is well-suited experimenting with pencil drawing, for charcoal, allowing its deeper tonal especially when starting out.

Pencils values to come through. Additionally, the Trend Union and Promostyl, among catwalk trend images from A process whereby a fabric particular season — is crucial in the global fashion industry is served by a others, are well-respected authorities Trendstop.

They also employ fashion- light box under controlled sales. Fashion designers will often direction and market-trend research orientated illustrators who contribute lighting conditions and visit their suppliers to discuss colours for fashion and interiors up to two to their publications with hand-drawn may be analysed with a for the coming season and will work years in advance of the selling illustrations alongside CAD artwork spectrometer.

Companies such as and colour presentation flats. Strike-offs A strike-off is a small run of screen-printed fabric, which is used to test the integrity of the screen for accuracy and colour trueness. It also refers to fabric that is printed in new colours or on new grounds with existing screens before a production run. In fashion this can manifest itself in a variety of ways that are linked to social, artistic and cultural values or influences.

This chapter briefly traces the origins of fashion drawing since the late 19th century to its contemporary expression as the modern fashion sketch.

The techniques and available art supplies are considered in relation to how fashion drawing has evolved over time as a hand-rendered practice. The sketching process and purpose of sketchbooks are also considered and visually presented to include examples of working drawings and rough sketches, which are taken from a variety of contemporary sources.

This chapter also includes interviews with a commercial fashion designer and an accomplished designer and illustrator to gain additional perspectives on fashion drawing styles, media choices and personal inspirations. These drawings became important cultural colour print with a series of markers of fashion in their own right and began to influence the stencils in which each colour was vividly applied by hand.

Frederick Worth began to sketch their ideas for private clients. Typically these early examples of fashion drawings aimed for Gouache A type of paint that consists proportional realism, with the garment rendered in great detail.

Gouache differs from watercolour in that the particles are larger and the ratio of pigment to water is much higher. It also contains chalk, which makes it heavier and more opaque, with greater reflective qualities. Tempera Tempera is a type of paint made by mixing powdered pigments with egg yolk.

When dry, it produces a smooth, matt finish. Using the pochoir process, move towards art deco. His name was each print using stencils for each leaner than before as the prevailing Charles Dana Gibson and his prolific colour. It was the first time a fashions changed. Gibson art to represent his creations and Drawings began to reflect a frivolity portrayed an elegant, yet slightly it redefined fashion illustration.

With the corset described as taller, more spirited but Watercolour, gouache and tempera abandoned, fashionable women altogether feminine. Watercolour paper or level. The Japanese kimono became silhouette at the turn of the century, lightweight card was frequently an important stylistic influence and fashion details focused on the bust used to prevent the water-based beadwork and fringing often adorned line; the introduction of the sheath media from buckling the paper.

The the otherwise simple shapes. Fashion vibrant colours and linear clarity. Fashion plate by Chanel and feminine. Drawing styles slouchy silhouette. The emphasis from the s.

The surrealist patterns were rendered in inks, art movement influenced fashion watercolours and gouache.

Brush illustration styles during this period, strokes became noticeably more with some notable collaborations enhanced and were used to great between fashion couturier Elsa effect, in combination with colour Schiaparelli and artists such as washes, to soften the overall look.

The scarcity of resources during the Second World War was reflected in a more realistic drawing style. Watercolour and gouache were still widely used to render accurate representations of fabrics, colours and prints. Shadow wash effects were sometimes added to enhance the visual composition.

Drawing styles became more romantic, with bolder, more expressive lines. Designers began to add fabric swatches and positioned the female figure centrally on the page. Gradually this gave way to different skirt silhouettes, including the new bubble skirt and the leaner, sophisticated pencil skirt. Strapless cocktail dresses were also popular, worn with structured foundation garments to control the silhouette. This style was accented by the new stiletto heel.

Drawings of this period, handled deftly through brush stroke and bold colour wash effects, exuded sophistication and elegance.

Watercolour, gouache and inks were all used by designers and illustrators during this time. Towards the end of the s bouffant hairstyles came into fashion and began to appear in sketches. Fashion sketch from the s. Quick-drying, felt-tipped marker pens were introduced during this time and were quickly adopted by designers.

The effect on drawings was immediate and lasting as the new pens allowed sketches to take on a more spontaneous and energetic look. The new fashion model was portrayed as youthful and vigorous. Poses changed from being demure and sophisticated to spirited and hedonistic as they projected a new type of freedom for women. Instead of elegant brush strokes and back washes, drawings took on a more linear, geometric expression, enabled by the new felt-tipped pens.

Mixed media drawings appeared, which used combinations of marker pens, pencil, crayon and watercolour. Despite this, drawing styles were still changing and progressively evolved towards decorative and psychedelic expression. Felt-tipped marker pens continued to be used by designers in an expanding range of colours.

Drawings became more experimental and the fashion figure began to be rendered in the more abstract form that we recognise today, with elongated arms and legs in sinuous, curved poses. Illustration of Montana dress by Richard Rosenfeld, It was a deliberate decision in favour of rediscovering the uniquely expressive qualities that a drawing can convey. It also demonstrated a more inclusive approach to the broader visual language of fashion as illustrators continued to experiment with media.

While designers were still using felt-tip and marker pens, illustrators rediscovered watercolour and gouache as well as colour pencils, acrylic paints, hard and soft pastel crayons, charcoals and a variety of inks. The late s saw the introduction of the first CAD computer-aided design imaging software programs. These had a major impact on fashion illustration and drawing presentation formats during the s and into the new millennium.

At first the new software programs were used to create background effects or simply to apply colour blocking to a drawing. However, as the scope of applications and editing properties became recognised by designers and illustrators, CAD-enhanced illustrations and drawings began to exert their influence and expand the aesthetic view of fashion. You should always begin by considering your light sources: make sure that you can see what you are doing. Some people draw on a flat surface but it is worth considering whether to raise your sketchbook or paper off the table and arrange it into an easel position.

This should also free up your arms, which is always the best way to approach drawing. Arranging your art supplies on the same side as your drawing hand will help to reduce unnecessary stretching, and helps avoid simple accidents such as dripping paint on your drawing.

Drawing with charcoal is and line quality. The harder grade a much looser experience than pencils can be useful for producing working with pencil since it offers fine-detailed line drawings, while the bolder lines that are not intended softer grades are well-suited to more to be erased. It is a good media for expressive sketch drawings and loosening up and drawing on larger adding tonal values.

Made from ground colour pigment combined with gum, soft pastels are available in a variety of vibrant colours and graduated tints. They can sometimes feel slightly crumbly in the hand but are blendable and leave a soft, almost creamy mark on paper. Hard pastels are firmer to the touch. These are suitable for producing broad, flat areas of colour as well as finer lines.

Chalk pastels, which are made up of limestone with added pigment, are tonally lighter than pure pigment pastels and require a fixative to prevent smudging. Chalk pastels are sometimes used for fashion life-drawing as an alternative to charcoal and are also available in pencil form. Perhaps less used in fashion, oil pastels do not require a fixative and characteristically produce a thick buttery mark.

They can be used on oil painting paper and may be dissolved with turpentine to create softer smudged colours. Inks Paints Chinagraph pencils Inks were much used in the early The most widely used paints These hard wax pencils are also 20th century to produce black or for colour fashion drawings and known as china markers or grease colour drawings and they still illustrations are watercolour and pencils.

Originally developed for offer a distinctive colour media gouache, both of which are marking on glossy, non-porous choice. They can be applied with water-soluble. Watercolour paints surfaces such as glass, plastic and brushes or nibs and are available are enduringly popular as they other glazed surfaces, these versatile in a wide range of colours that can offer soft, subtle colour washes pencils also work well on newsprint be mixed to produce almost any and translucent colour effects.

The lines they make are between inks that are water-soluble colour pencil to good effect but bolder than regular pencils and and waterproof. Both can be used should be allowed to dry beforehand. Waterproof Good-quality watercolour paints Indian inks are popular with some have been developed to eliminate fashion illustrators and can be used hard edges. Gouache is an opaque to create line and wash effects watercolour paint and is suitable for across a variety of paper surfaces.

Conversely, it is sometimes watered down but this is not how it should be applied. This semi-opaque media. The weight and surface paper is crisp, lightweight and of the paper should also be its smooth surface makes it considered: hot pressed HP or suitable for pencil and fine papers have a smooth, hard pen-and-ink artwork. This is the smoothest type of surface and is well-suited Tracing paper is a transparent to pen and ink.

Cold pressed paper that is designed to be laid NOT papers have a slightly over another surface and used textured surface. Rough for tracing through using all types surface papers take on more of of pencils and most pens. It is a the texture of the paper-making design-orientated paper and felt and are dried naturally pencil lines can be easily erased.

Finally, consider the size of the paper, Newsprint is an inexpensive which will determine issues of paper that is suitable for fashion scale, and the overall quality: life-drawing and sketching. It is designers and illustrators. Cartridge papers may have smooth or fine grain finishes Multi-media paper known as and are usually offered for sketch vellum in the USA refers to a 1 pads in typical sizes from A5 to good, all-round paper that is A3.

While the paper is well-suited suitable for multi-media drawings to pencils, soft pastels and most including pen and ink, marker 1 The desk of illustrator marker pens it is not ideal for pens, pencils and oil pastels.

Richard Haines. If in doubt, ask These papers are available from when you buy the paper or most good-quality paper brands. Marker papers are characterised by their bleed-proof finishes that Watercolour papers are make them specifically suitable designed for applying watercolour for applying marker pens. They and gouache paints. They come also have a special coating on in cold pressed and rough the reverse side to prevent the surface textures, which makes markers from soaking through the paper suitable for holding to the next sheet.

Hot pressed papers are used for lighter watercolour Note: North American paper washes and are also excellent for sizes are different from the A4 charcoal drawing and pastels. See page for a conversion table. Drawing to communicate your ideas The fashion sketch As we can see from the historical fashion drawings earlier in this chapter, what passes for a fashion sketch has adapted and evolved over time, reflecting an aesthetic statement of style that is broadly aligned to the cultural and social values of the day.

Since the s, fashion designers have adopted a wide variety of approaches to the fashion sketch. Individuality is often applauded and encouraged in colleges in the pursuit of creative expression through drawing and, although media choices have expanded and diversified over the years, the fashion sketch remains one of the most alluring aspects of realising a personal drawing style.

An understanding of the human body is integral to fashion sketching, which is usually the process of drawing the clothed figure on a stylised human form. To a lay person, fashion sketches can often appear abstract, energetic or even unfinished, but in fact fashion sketches serve different purposes depending on their intended use.

Experimenting with fashion sketching can help you build confidence and develop your drawing skills. All fashion sketches should aspire towards answering a design problem or a brief. Without this context a fashion sketch might be considered little more than a stylish scribble. Most sketches are drawn with a degree of speed and stylisation that is intended to convey a mood or attitude, beyond visually describing the clothes.

It is always best to have an idea of what you want to draw. This may sound obvious, but fashion sketching should be purposeful, not random or too abstract. In many respects a fashion sketch is a problem-solving process, which brings together the visual elements of articulating an idea in its purest form.

A fashion sketch should seek to record and make sense of an idea. This is largely achieved with any one or more of three components: establishing the overall silhouette of a garment or outfit; conveying the style lines of a garment such as a princess seam or the positioning of a dart; and representing details on a garment such as a pocket shape, topstitching or embellishment. Some sketches may appear spontaneous or similar to mark making but they should all be linked by a common understanding of the human form and an end use.

Mark making is a general term used to describe a variety of lines and marks that may be applied by different media to enhance or add an expressive quality to a drawing. In fashion drawing it is synonymous with line quality. Graphite or drawing pencils are ideal for shading and creating variations of line quality. While this is a good way Drawing to communicate your ideas to get started, it is also well worth developing the confidence to sketch with a pen.

Sketch by Richard Haines. The process of reviewing and refining a design involves collating ideas in line-up sheets. These represent drawings of outfits not individual garments , which are visually presented on the human figure as a coherent statement for a collection proposal.

Line-up sheets are more practical than inspiration sketches or rough sketches and are generally clearer to understand on the page. Their primary purpose is to assist with visual range planning and the commercial requirements of formulating ready-to-wear clothing ranges. Consequently, they have no real basis in haute couture or bridal wear, which is more about representing the individual. Whilst there is no template for the perfect sketchbook and they are not solely the preserve of fashion designers , a good fashion sketchbook should enable the designer to progressively record and document a series of ideas and inspirations through related visual and written material accumulated over time.

All sketchbooks evolve in response to changing influences and circumstances. The true value of a sketchbook is in how the designer uses it to pause and reflect on their work in a meaningful way in order to continue to the next stage of the design journey. It can sometimes be difficult to fully comprehend this when starting out; there may be a temptation to fill up the opening pages with lots of secondary images but this will not lead to a personal sketchbook unless it starts to take on the personality of the user, rather like a personal diary or journal.

Sketchbooks also enable 1—2 Sketches by Helena you to explore and develop your own drawing style; the book will Kruczynska. One of the most useful aspects of a sketchbook is its portable nature, allowing you to carry it around and enter quick thumbnail sketches or observational drawings. Most fashion student sketchbooks are A4 size. However, there is no fixed rule on this as some students successfully work with A3-size sketchbooks.

Sometimes working across a landscape A3 format can be useful for sketching A4-size fashion figures and developing preliminary line-ups.

The smaller A5 pocket-size sketchbooks can be useful for discreetly carrying around; they also work well as fabric swatch books and for entering additional thumbnail sketches.

See page for the North American equivalents to A3 and A4. I am also involved in a layout paper. I rough out some good project at a more fundamental level, poses either from life, from my head creating a pilot fashion design or magazines.

Indian ink and a dip pen. This forces you to draw pretty quickly and gives What was your career path you clean, meaningful lines with to your current job? Then I work by lightly filling a design professional since I left in colour using pastels. I also make college, first with my own line and copies and use colour pencils, later choosing to immerse myself in Pantone and highlight with gouache the mass market.

I worked full-time if necessary. I could redundant overnight. I can be inspired by an old lady who wears What makes a good her hat a certain way. I was once fashion sketch? Something new How would you describe your both good and bad is always lurking drawing style? Follow your gut Realistic but not realistic, sometimes feelings and keep your standards caricaturist which design sketches high, particularly if you choose the can be , comical and whimsical, mass-market route where small, exciting, usually with movement not-quite-right things can become and flow in the lines.

Believe in yourself, otherwise no one will believe in you. Bloomingdales, which they are using in their various kinds of communications for their department stores.

What artistic training have you had? How would you describe your fashion drawing style? Adrenalin kick-style, quick and clean and rough. What type of media do you like to use? Ink feather, pen and brush using ink are my favourites, and my style is pretty much that. I mix materials depending on mood, such as felt pen, a lot of coloured pencils, a variety of ball point pens, crayons, basic pencils and so on.

What makes a great fashion drawing? When you sort of feel the quick move of the brush or pencil, understanding the anatomy instantly in your stomach by the first look. What advice do you have for a student to develop their drawing skills? To really practise your eyes and hands to draw what you see, and to practise drawing anatomy by nude studies, over and over again, until it comes automatically like walking or riding a bicycle. Drawing to communicate your ideas What or who inspires you?

Music influences me a lot, it gives soundtracks and moods to my pictures. I like to design everything to do Holly Mae Gooch. In this chapter we will look in more detail at the fashion figure and consider the value of working with a life model to gain primary drawing perspectives. We will also examine the differences between observational drawings of the human figure and the idealised forms that characterise the fashion figure for men and women.

Different approaches between drawing men and women are compared and contrasted as we consider how to proportion the human body to a fashion scale. We look at the value of working with poses to communicate an attitude and create the desired look, along with associated gestural attributes, which are characteristic of figurative fashion drawing. This can 2 Nine-heads figure template sometimes be slightly confusing to the untrained eye but in by Helena Kruczynska.

This ideal is then aligned to a contemporary look that is viewed through the visual lens of fashion. Since the late s and s exaggerated proportions have generally prevailed and continue to exert an artistic influence over most fashion drawings.

Most of the additional height is gained through the legs, with some added to the neck and a little added to the torso above the natural waist. Most women in the real world stand around 5ft 5in or 5ft 6in, but a fashion figure needs to project greater height in order to better show off the clothes and communicate the look to an audience, usually through exaggerated gestural poses.

Of course, a woman who might be 5ft 2in could be proportioned the same as a woman standing 5ft 10in but for fashion purposes neither would offer the desired ideal proportions for communicating the look.

When drawing the fashion figure the look might refer to the prevailing styles of the season, such as the position of the fashion waist, or it may be an exploration of voluminous or contoured clothing styles with reference to influences from a particularly favoured model or celebrity. There are fundamental differences between the fashion proportions for drawing men and women.

For men the drawing approach is altogether more angular. See Drawing men on page It is important to consider the appropriate art materials and media, such as charcoal, pen or pencil, as well as paper type and the eventual scale of work. Working to larger sizes, such as A3 or A2, is often best when starting out or simply for loosening up see page for more on paper sizes.

Drawing is a process that can be improved and enhanced with regular practice and life drawing offers the particular opportunity of developing and improving hand-to-eye coordination. This is essentially about trusting yourself to spend more time looking at the figure in front of you, rather than by glancing at the figure then looking at the emerging drawing itself and drawing from memory.

This is a common mistake among life-drawing students. It is very important to study the figure before you start to draw. Try to make sure that you are in a good viewing position and then analyse the pose. The balance line is an imaginary line that drops from the base of the centre of the neck down to the floor at the position of the foot. As a general rule, the leg that is supporting the weight of the pose, which should always be drawn before the other leg, will curve down to the floor and should join up with the balance line at the outside edge of the foot.

Proportions in fashion drawing represent an ideal, so it follows that the life figure does not need to be drawn as an exact representation. This requires interpretative visualisation, which is an essential release for fashion drawing. In this regard it is important to note the value of line quality in the fashion-drawing process. Line quality describes the varieties of drawn lines or marks that have their own inherent characteristics depending on the media that is used, the paper quality, the speed at which the line is made and even the angle of the pen or pencil as it moves along the surface of the paper.

Distinct from adding tone and shading techniques, the use of line to convey essential information is integral to most fashion drawings. Some of the most expressive and visually engaging fashion poses are the result of linear drawings, where selective line quality is used to maximum effect. An understanding of fashion proportions and the standing balance line is essential as a building block for more gestural poses, which instil movement and personality into a fashion drawing. In addition to studying poses from life, it is also possible to develop poses by tracing over figurative photographs in magazines, but this needs to be approached with care: consider the image only as a starting point.

Fashion is, after all, a human activity so it follows that developing and creating studied poses is a useful exercise and will aid the development of templates or croquis for future use. While the pose Croquis is a French word for a sketch. In fashion should be relevant to the context of the clothing for example, it terms, it describes a linear would make little sense to draw a sporty pose for a wedding dress drawing of a figure that may or an evening gown , creating the pose is much more about the be used as a template over which to trace and draw a body underneath.

Look for movement lines that run through the design or garment. Figurative body — not the outline of the figure — noting the intersections of the fashion templates or croquis pose at the bust, waist and hip positions. The leg supporting the are typically exaggerated to a nine- or ten-heads weight must be grounded, but the other limbs can be modified or proportion.

The figures in 2 and 4 are line drawings of different poses; 1 and 3 show studies of poses in a fashion context. The very personal and unique attributes that a face can contribute to a drawing are worth exploring through practice and exercises. Make-up trends continue to have a direct influence on contemporary fashion faces and it is always useful to collect magazine tear sheets from which to study and evaluate different faces and proportions.

Noses nostrils; they can be useful for tone and shade. Structurally, the are rarely given any prominence in displaying earrings, if appropriate. The mouth is usually and smudging effects but take care arranged halfway between the eyes not to overwork them.

Eye shadow and the base of the chin. The mouth can be added for greater effect and The fashion figure could be considered in two parts to provide colour. Lashes should with its upper and lower lips. The nose may either appeal of the drawing. If it is visible the hairline should be drawn around a quarter of the way down from the top of the oval shape of the head.

Line, shade and colour can all be added according to the style requirements and context. The fashion figure Arms, hands, legs and feet 1—3 Studies of hands and arms When drawing a fashion figure it is important to consider the hands, by Holly Mae Gooch. The standing figure needs to be drawn with due consideration of the balance line, so that the leg that supports the weight of the figure is drawn at a gentle curve down to the floor, with the outside edge of the foot placed where it meets the balance line.

Correctly positioning the leg that supports the weight of the figure is critical in determining the credibility of the pose; consider this in relation to the upper body position and the placement of the arms, which can often counterbalance the exaggerated form of the legs. Although it is helpful to understand anatomy and muscle tone in relation to figure drawing, for fashion drawings the arm muscles are not emphasised on women.

Instead, the lines of the female figure should remain gently curved and drawn as a continuous line wherever possible. Longer lines are a discernible characteristic of fashion drawing and help to convey a sense of style and confidence. The upper arm is attached to the shoulder from which it may pivot depending on the angle of the torso. It has a smooth, gently tapering upper section that reaches down to the elbow position. This part of the arm tapers more visibly to where it joins the hand.

In drawing terms, the hands have two main parts: the front or back of the palm and the fingers and thumb. Both parts may be elongated to offer the fashion figure a range of gestures and actions, which will all enhance the drawing.

Fingernails may be included but knuckles are not usually emphasised: too much detail on a hand can make it look wrinkled. You could also try drawing the hand resting on the hip with the fingers hidden from view. When starting out it is interpretation of an ideal figure rather the knee; and the lower leg or calf, helpful to practise sketching bare than realistic proportions, so it which joins the foot.

The upper leg feet, but the foot will usually be follows that drawing the legs is an should be gently rounded and taper hidden from view within a shoe, exercise in artistic licence.

Fashion to the knee position; this can be which can be drawn in a huge legs are routinely extended in the sketched out as a circle but on a variety of styles. The overall look will upper leg and thigh, and below the finished drawing is usually indicated be determined by the angle of the knee to where the ankle meets the with a slightly extended line from foot and whether or not the shoe foot.

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