Might try following him if he can reliably duplicate the issue and see if the brake lights flicker when this happens, or check the cruise to see if it drops out under these conditions. If it is a switch issue, I'd think this was it. You didn't specify what year we are messing with, this should be for the run of trucks. Might also check the wiring plugin for the trans, those can go bad. I know the 96 would shift very strangely any time the underside got enough water under it to get the wiring harness plug into the trans wet.
Also has he done any programming on it? If he has the lock and unlock too close together, or has a value that is out of whack, the computer might see a parameter that says lock the converter at this speed in 4th, but the same number tells the computer to unlock the converter if this number is met at this speed in 4th. Post by nitram » Mon Jun 18, am My '97 5. It will do it with the cruise control either on or off, so I don't think the brake pedal switch has anything to do with it.
Any other ideas as to what could be causing this? Post by ThunderTT » Mon Jun 18, am not to be discouraging, but mine did the same thing before it gave up rev.
Post by agreif » Mon Jun 18, am funny thing is that it doesn't do it in cruise control? Post by stroker97k » Sat Jun 23, pm I am Assuming that you have a 4L60e most of whats below are part 's for pre 4l60e Sonnax makes an overdrive servo that will hold more and cause less slippage if the ecm sees too much slippage it will do some wierd stuff also mostly code will pop up on check engine light.
The wiring harness that goes from the plug on the transmission to all the solenoids on the transmission doesn't cost very much at all, if ordered through gmpartsdirect. This valve can be replaced with just the trans pan dropped and a good set of snap-ring pliers. A few inches over looking up with the t-pan dropped On the other side of the pump, there is another valve called Reverse Boost Valve.
Sonnax update valve part e-k is an oversized. Those things were a few simple things to try that I had read up on and did along with about every other update that sonnax offers for this 4l60E transmission. I went a little further and installed a transgo kit and drilled a bunch of fluid apply holes larger per transgo instructions and installed different springs ect.
Re: Post by 97kwd » Sun Jun 24, am You are correct. A misfire condition detected by the PCM could be so subtle that you don't even feel it can cause issues like this I'll see if I can find a link on this. Post by agreif » Sun Jun 24, am yeah, he's not getting any codes and he hasn't lost any power, otherwise I woudl have been right with ya on that misfire. He broke down and took it to a tranny shop, they think it's an intermittant ground somewhere.
I'm still calling TCC solenoid is on the fritz. Edited for typo. Last edited by joecar on Wed Jun 27, pm, edited 2 times in total. Post by Faster7 » Tue Jun 26, pm Speeder wrote: All 4L60Es use a brake switch input to unlock the converter when the brakes are applied. Post by agreif » Wed Jun 27, pm So tranny shop says the TC is getting a signal to stay locked, when it unlocks that signal is not changing, so they have ruled out electrical.
Thinking valvebody swap, I guess similar to what you were saying stroker97k Re: Post by 97kwd » Wed Jun 27, pm Wow! Here is the Moparman kit for this. Please ensure you troubleshoot your alternator fully and ensure the Diodes are to blame. We will not offer a refund once the Diodes have been installed. Problem solved! Took the recently purchased Alternator back to O'Reilly's where I got it from, had them test it on their tester. They told me they run the test 3 times and if they get a PASS all three times, its a good alternator.
When I asked about measuring AC Voltage, they looked dumbfounded, so I asked them if I could hook my multi-meter up to the alternator while they tested? They agreed! So now this alternator is reading. So the guy now rells me guess we have a bad alternator but they don't have another one on the shelf and I will need to wait till tomorrow to bring one in from the other store.
I say, I'm OK with that, but that I've learned my lesson and we are going to have to test the next alternator as well before I leave the store with it. The next morning yesterday they call me and let me know the alternator is in and I can come down and pick it up. So I ask the guy about it and he says their machine has no way of testing the diodes, it only test for overall condition of the alternator.
Starting to get a bit frustrated, I decided to quit messing around and go to the most reliable place in town I know of, a small family owned auto electric and mechanical shop Auto Electric, Anchorage, Alaska. I was hoping that maybe they had heard of this isuue I am having with the TCL and get fixed up with a good alternator. They rebuild all kinds of auto electrical parts right there in house as well a run a full service auto mechanic shop.
Well,,,,I explained my problem to them and showed them a printed copy of the troubleshooting procedure I got from the MopaMan website, to which they said However these guys are real pro's and they didn't blow me off. They took my concerns seriously, brought two techs in out of the shop to talk with me about this, as I explainded to them the 0. They genuinly got concerned and were pulling down alternators, checking them on the bench and checking outputs at vehicles in the shop.
The NEW alternator was putting out 0. However in further discussion, the techs I was working with concluded, and BTW they turned out to be right , that the test machine itself was putting off AC Noise and that the Fluke Meter was picking up that AC Noise during the test, and that since the Voltage Regulator is on either the PCM or ECM , the only way to accuratly read out the AC output on this alternator was to put it on the vehicle and measure it at that time.
Feeling pretty good at this point I take it for a test drive. Runs and shifts perfectly. He asked me to check back in with him to let him know how all this worked out. I will do that on Monday, as well as express my thanks for all the personal attention, efforts and concerns Auto Electric gave to me to adress my problem.
In the meantime, my utmost gratitude to MoparMan for sharing your knoweledge and wisdom on this issue. I had tried all the bandaid tricks only to have them each work for anywhere to a couple hours to a couple days or so and then reappear. I believe what was happening was that as I fixed a ground or foiled a wire, it masked the problem just long enough for the diodes on the alternator to get a little worse and then BOOM, the problem is back!
Very good information MoparMan!!! Happy Holidays!!! Here we go with another blown alternator confirming without a doubt of the diodes being a cause. Before any repair After the alternator is rebuilt The cause December 1, A ten star write up in my book. Thank you for loads of clarification. By MoparMan February 10, Share More sharing options Followers 0.
Update: November 19, Here we go with another blown alternator confirming without a doubt of the diodes being a cause.
0コメント