Install zone control damper

However, the included thermostats may not be the best option for your particular set up. There are other options, though. Some brands make thermostats capable of controlling multiple zones from a single interface. These thermostats can also be wireless if you want that freedom. The choice is yours, but your cost will vary depending on your selections. One of the most important things to know is the size and distance of your ducts.

If this is a retrofit installation, you may require more dampers that you would if it is a new install. However, you need to know what size your main branches are, as well as how many smaller branches exist. Many systems will only use a damper in the main ducting. However, for more precision control, you may want to install more dampers in the smaller service branches of the ductwork. There are many different sized dampers to choose from as well.

This means they will either open or close fully. Modulated dampers will work to open or close to various widths to better control airflow and cooling capabilities in the zones they control. Modulated dampers are more expensive, of course, but will make the system even more efficient. Along with the size of your ductwork, you need to purchase dampers that match the size of your ducts so the system works properly.

The airflow rate is measured in cubic feet per minute CFM. This measurement tells you how much air is being moved in a particular space, or the capacity of a system. When it comes to zoned systems, the CFM will generally have two measurements.

The first is total CFM. Total CFM gives you an idea of how much air can be moved, in total, by the system. Assuming there are no dampers closed, this is the overall capacity of the system. You also have the Zone CFM. This is the reading or capacity, per zone, that the system can move. The higher the numbers, the more air is moved, resulting in faster cooling or heating. However, if your system is rated too high for the space, you can lose some of the efficiency a zoned system offers.

The material of your ductwork will also come into play. The most common type is galvanized steel or aluminum. However, there are about a dozen different materials used for HVAC ductwork. Other options are fiberboard, pre-insulated polyurethane, fiberglass, and even PVC. Some dampers will not work properly or be able to seal some materials. Not only do you need to know what type of ducting material you have or will install , but you also need to know the limitations of the dampers based on the chosen materials.

Another initial cost factor is room sensors. Depending on the control board and thermostat types, you may be required to install room sensors. Sensors will report to the control board and the thermostat the actual temperature in the room.

In a traditional system, the temperature is read at the thermostat only. This means that you can set the temperature to 75 degrees F , and the system will shut off when the thermostat reads Sensors help prevent this by reporting the actual temperature across the zone. Finally, you will want to look at the warranty offered by the system you select.

The warranty should cover the dampers, thermostats, and sensors. The term will depend on other factors as well, such as installation type DIY or professional , type of system the zoned set up is added to, or if it is a new install versus a retrofit.

You will also need to perform certain steps to enact the warranty in most cases. This can be as simple as registering your product online, or you may need to supply proof of purchase; the proof is professional installation or other factors.

Make sure you read all of the fine print before you buy. Below we offer you the 6 best HVAC zone dampers and controllers reviewed and compared for your convenience. Take a look at the options and find out which one is best for you. The SmartZone-2x is a dual-zone controller designed for universal integration. This controller is ideal for new installs, retrofits, upgrades, and replacement.

The controller is universal for all 24v dampers. It runs on a dedicated 24v line with bright LEDs to let you know f any connection failures, status, and troubleshooting.

The controller will power two dampers per board but can be paired to hold up to 20 dampers for a single HVAC system. It is. This control board will work with any electrical, gas, dual-fuel, single-stage, multi-stage, or heat pump. It also comes with a temperature probe to replace any current system that may require one to operate.

Your existing thermostat will also work, and if you choose to upgrade that, the new one will work as well, including smart thermostats or wireless programmable thermostats. With the SmartZone-2x you can take full control of your new multi-zone HVAC system, dampers and thermostats without having to worry about compatibility or functionality. The board also sports a 5-year warranty to help you keep peace of mind while you make your system more efficient.

Ecojoy is back with the SmartXone-4x control board. Just like the top pick, this is a universal board designed for all types of installations.

Whether you are performing a new multi-zone install or upgrading from a single-zone system, the SmartZone-4x is worth a look. This control board will power and monitor four different dampers. Before you get to install HVAC zone control dampers, you need to arrange for the following things:. This central control panel is responsible for communicating between the dampers, thermostats, and HVAC system.

You can think of it as the brains of the general zoning application. The zone control panel collects information on the preferred zone. It then directs the dampers towards producing enough airflow to satisfy the cooling and heating in every area. If the temperature gets too hot or too cold for your liking, the thermostat sends a signal to the Zone control panel to bring warm or cool air to that zone.

They are wired to a particular zone on a control panel headed by a specified thermostat in your house. The zone dampers open and close automatically, depending on the thermostat. According to the United States Environment Protection Agency , it is better to label all the ventilation zone components for effective maintenance. We all know that cold air descends and hot air rises. You will notice a discernable temperature change in your house in the summer with the air conditioning on or in winter with the heater on.

This can be balanced using a manual or electric damper. The basic installation will be addressed going forward. However, it is better to consult the manufacturer when installing the electric damper.

It is better to clean your ducts before you install HVAC zone control dampers because there might be dust, dander, or allergens trapped within your ductwork. Observe your ductwork or furnace.

After determining the duct where you want to install the damper, you have to measure its diameter. After measuring, you will require a damper of the same size. If you are installing an electric damper, make sure that it is not in line with any spray or water source.

You can adjust the damper according to the season, diverting air to various parts of your home where it may be required. Some HVAC systems come equipped with manual dampers to regulate the air. Furthermore, manual dampers are easy to maintain and operate. However, suppose you want a precision control system and prefer auto-regulation of the air. In that case, you should go for automatic dampers. These are controlled via thermostats and are positioned inside air ducts.

The 2L, on the other hand, allows you to use any system, including gas, electric, and dual-fuel. This controller kit includes simple installation instructions that will have your zones heated and cooled in no time.

This control board is practically foolproof to install; all you have to do is push a wire into a connection hole. They provide five different diameters to accommodate practically any installation. However, the 8-inch model is one of the most popular motorized power dampers on the market. The circular dampers are available in sizes of 6, 8, 9, 10, and 16 inches. They should fit practically any business or residential application.

The galvanized steel design will withstand seasonal temperature changes all year long. It will prevent drafts, air leaks, and other inefficient elements of a traditional HVAC system.

It blocks nearly all airflow when closed. Homeowners can use these dampers to create zones or to keep heat from escaping their vents during the winter. This damper is not only efficient but also reduces energy usage. In a breeze or a draft, it will not move.

The damper also helps to reduce noise from your fan, attic vent, and other zones. New installations, retrofits, upgrades, and replacements are all possible with this controller.

The controller works with all 24v dampers. It runs with a dedicated 24v line and features bright LEDs that indicate connection failures, status, and troubleshooting. The controller powers two dampers per board.

However, you can link it together to power up to 20 dampers in a single HVAC system. Yes, it is. Any electrical, single-stage, gas, dual-fuel, multi-stage, or heat pump will function with this control board. It also includes a temperature probe, which homeowners can use to replace any present system that requires one. Your present thermostat will operate. And if you decide to replace it, the new one, including a smart thermostat or wireless programmable thermostats, will work as well.

You can take complete control of your new multi-zone dampers with the SmartZone-2x without worrying about compatibility or functionality. The board also comes with a 5-year warranty. This warranty will give you peace of mind as you improve the efficiency of your system.

It is a universal board that homeowners can use for several applications. Four separate dampers will be powered and monitored by this control board. You can use nearly any HVAC damper as long as it operates at 24 volts. This damper comprises connectors with two and three wires. When it comes to thermostats, the 4x works with all major brands. This control board will allow you to add more than four dampers if necessary. The control board is easy to install and set up.

This damper no longer requires screws, and all cables are push-tight locked without the use of set-screws. Similar dampers may be installed right in HVAC ducts where the ducts pass between different building areas. I'm wanting to use my already installed central heat and air unit for my house to supply AC to my basement. I will not need to heat the basement, only cool it. There is no thermostat down there and no vents. What is the best way to do this?

Note: AC might be required in the basement even in winter months when I would need to heat living area above the basement. I'm looking for stable temps all year around in the basement. I live in the Deep South so winters aren't very harsh here. If the unit you have has enough capacity you should be able to add ductwork to send supply air and take return air from the basement area. To be more sophisticated you could add a second cooling zone with its own thermostat. If that problem confronts you, that is if you need to sometimes heat one part of your home while cooling and dehumidifying another, I would think about using a separate system, perhaps a heat pump, so that you can separately heat or cool the basement while cooing or heating the upstairs, or vice versa.

You need to bring in your local HVAC technician to get some more accurate advice that is informed by your home, requirements, and the equipment you have already installed.

Thanks for your prompt response! Sounds like I need a 2 zone board, 2 zone damper, and a thermostat for the basement. The AC unit is 2. I'm a little confused when you mentioned "return air". Why would I need to return air somewhere.

Could I not just dump cool air into the basement without running a return? Please explain what you mean by return air? You could indeed just "dump cool air into the basement" but this is usually unnecessarily expensive and it is also rather likely to be ineffective at dehumidifying that space.

When we are trying to push warm or cool air into a space through supply ducts and registers, we need also to provide ductwork and at least one central return-air register for air from the same space to return back to the air handler that is doing the heating or cooling.

If we don't provide a return air path to the air handler then we have designed a system that either won't cool or heat well because it has trouble pushing air into the space think of blowing up a balloon , OR we have designed the most expensive possible cooling or heating system because it is pushing conditioned air just in one direction: into the conditioned space.

A "one-way" air movement design means that the heating or cooling system is forever taking supply air from some other source and trying to bring it to the temperature called-for by the thermostat in the conditioned space. For an example of a really bad design and just the case that you are describing, imagine if you were heating the upstairs by some other means of heat while trying to cool the downstairs which I must say is an odd situation but one that you describe.

And imagine that your air handler is taking heated air from upstairs, sending it through an air conditioner to cool it down, then blowing it into the basement. The air source is warm - we will never successfully dehumidify the cooled air conditioned space, and we are spending as much money as possible by always taking the heated air from area A and cooling it but sending it to area B.

A more efficient and effective design circulates the air from area B Basement repeatedly through the air handler where it is cooled and dehumidified. Do you do a thermostat that i can put in my room when it gets to hot it will turn a fan on to take the heat into other rooms?

If you are asking if we can sell you a heating part the answer is no, sorry, but we do not sell anything. In order to absolutely assure our readers that we write and report without bias we do not sell any products nor do we have any business or financial relationships that could create such conflicts of interest.

But we can tell you what you might want to install to address your heat distribution improvement question:.

A competent onsite inspection by an expert usually finds additional clues that help accurately diagnose a problem with your heat or heating distribution system - something that might change how you want to "fix" a problem of uneven heat in the building.

That said If you are unable to turn down the heat in a room that is too hot by partly closing a radiator control valve, by installing a thermostatically operated individual radiator valve, or partly closing an air supply register. You could indeed direct warm air from one room into another that is adjoining by the following procedure:.

With that set-up, when the overheated room reaches the set temperature on the new wall thermostat, that switch will turn on the electric fan that will begin moving warm air from the too-hot room to the too cool room. When the room temperature in the "too hot" room falls, the new wall thermostat will turn off the air moving fan.

Several companies make these air-moving registers and they come in a variety of sizes and colors such as. Bal, Thank you for a helpful question about "either-or" zone damper controllers.

Please note the following 4 follow up replies and images to your question.